Big Wave Surfing: Tackling Nature's Giants

A dangerous activity requiring a lot of talent and specific equipment is big-wave surfing. Above all, it begs for gonads. Surfers are driven into 20 to 50 foot depths, and the water pressure is sufficient to burst an eardrum. Surviving such a wipeout can thus be impossible.

The roots of big wave surfing

Riding huge waves is only one aspect of big wave surfing. It's also about surviving falls that, taken at face value, seem likely to result in near-certain death. Thanks to a committed band of surfers that call it home, the sport has changed dramatically over the past 70 years. Eddie Aikau was among the first adventurers in this courageous new world of surf. Skilled surfer and lifeguard, he became a legendary waterman in the 1970s by conquering very big waves at Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay in Hawaii. Nazare is a peaceful seaside village today noted for its massive wave, Praia do Norte, which may reach up to 78 feet height. For surfers who risk their lives to ride its face, the wave is a favourite and has come to represent the bold attitude of this small group of extreme sportsmen. Surfers like Sebastian Steudtner claim they feel completely unsafe out there. They also claim, nevertheless, that they experience total peace and flow for a few brief moments.

Riding the larger waves in surfing

You have to first conquer fear if you wish to advance your surfing. When used appropriately, fear can be a tremendous motivator in the search of larger waves and demanding conditions. Start with lower waves and work your way up gradually to become ready; at each step, you will boost your confidence and ability. Practice the foundations, including great balance and strong paddling style. Spend some time seeing yourself surmount large waves; this helps you to lower your stress. Any great wave surfer's most critical ability is their capacity to hold their breath underwater. Should a huge wave drag you under, you may be stuck down for minutes without opportunity to swim back up to the surface for breathing. Training in CO2 tolerance and regular breathing exercises will greatly help you to sustain your breath under pressure. Should you fall from your surfboard during the height of a massive wave, this can significantly affect your odds of surviving.

Riding the larger swells in surfing

A sport not for everyone is big wave surfing. Even for the most skilled surfers, facing down a massive wave that, on its own, seems like a definite disaster call for a certain mental courage. How do they do it? Preparation is absolutely important. Surfers can hone their abilities and confidence in anticipation of facing more challenging conditions by spending time in the water tracking waves and learning their dynamics. By means of specific strength and endurance training, getting in shape also allows surfers to better handle the physical challenges of larger waves. Moreover, using mindfulness strategies like yoga or meditation helps one to overcome anxiety over past wipe-offs and upcoming waves. Finally, it is imperative to recognise the location and particular risks involved. Avoiding placing oneself in risk requires time investigating the currents, reefs, sharks, and crowds of a location.

Surfing the More Significant Sites

Running to sea and attempting to ride a wave many times their size scares most people. Still, some surfers commit their lives to riding large waves at locations including Nazare, Jaws, Mavericks and Shipstern's Bluff. Thrills seekers and adrenaline junkies, these surfers value the sensation they get just a few seconds on these enormous waves. The process starts for surfers hoping to ride the ultimate waves with studying all they can about the waves and the water. This includes studying the bathymetry and chemistry of the water to forecast wave formation and breaking direction. Training and breath-holding exercises will also assist surfers survive lengthy stretches of time when oxygen is limited, as during the feared "double or triple holddown" that is typical of these kinds of waves.